Ecuador Explorer

Ecuador Foods

2009-03-30T15:55:00.000-07:00

Ecuador is known for its many exotic fruits, top quality seafood and fish, and countless varieties of potatoes. It's true that you can find fast food chains in the larger cities, but why would you want to, when such an array of fresh, good food is available?

You'll find a broad spectrum of national and regional dishes, including lemon-marinated shrimp (ceviche), toasted corn, and pastries stuffed with spiced meats. If you're feeling courageous, you can sample the roasted or grilled cuy (pronounced "kwee") or guinea pig, which were an important part of the Andean diet since before the arrival of the Spanish.

Restaurants serving cuy can be hard to find in Ecuador and may require 24 hour notice. It is still common among rural indigenous people, especially in the south, who often raise their own in their home.

One typical and favorite Ecuadorean food is the empanada. Ecuadorean savoury empanadas are made with a little ground beef or chicken, potatoes, rice, onions, cheese and spices in any combination, wrapped in dough and then baked or deep-fried and served with aji (chili pepper sauce).

The dough is made with corn or wheat, or sometimes with quinoa. At the coast, plantain and yuca are used. Small ones are served as an appetizer when you order meals at some restaurants. Regular empanadas are large and hearty, about the size of a sandwich. One is a snack, two are a meal. You can find them at any bakery, and there are bakeries everywhere.

Traveling in Ecuador, you may be startled to see pig carcasses hanging from hooks alongside the road. These are Fritada stands. If you place an order, a slab is cut off, chopped into chunks, and fried up. It's served in a greasy newspaper page, reminiscent of fish and chips in England. You can also order fritada at most Ecuadorian restaurants that serve regional food.

Hornado is a pig (some quite large) that has been roasted whole. Hornado has a deeper, richer flavor than fritada, and is available at some restaurants and at roadside stands on the outskirts of most major cities.

Fritada and Hornado are often served with llapingachos, soft yellowish pancakes made of mashed potatoes and cheese. They're delicious!

Llapingachos and fritada are most popular in the regions to the north of Quito, but you can get them anywhere.

Arroz con Camaron or rice with shrimp, and rice with seafood are other common dishes, as rice is grown in the coastal flatlands. Main course meals are usually served with french fries and rice, and a little salad of chilled poached vegetables, usually carrots, peas, and cauliflower.

Soups are without doubt Ecuador's specialty. Most lunches and dinners are accompanied by a savory soup as the first course. Personally, I've found a bowl of Ecuadorean soup is often a meal in itself. Locro soup, made with cheese, avocado and potato, sounds a bit strange, but is very tasty. Chicken soups are often broths with a few vegetables and a large piece of stewed or poached chicken. Other soups from seafood, quinoa, plantain balls (bolones de verde) and vegetables are served as broths or may be creamed, and all are delicious and nourishing.

With the mouthwatering exotic fruits of Ecuador come delicious fresh fruit juices (jugos), including naranjilla (a cross between an orange and a tomato), tree tomato (tomate de arbol), mora (blackberry), guanabana (a luscious thick aromatic sweet white juice), maracuya (passion fruit), pina (pineapple) and papaya.

Fruit ice creams of Ecuador are pure fruit flavor. Often still made the old way, with copper pots on top of ice and straw and turned by hand, it is really sorbet or fruit ice, since no cream is used, just fruit and sugar. The city of Ibarra is famous for its fruit icecreams.

Quimbolitos are little tamale-like cakes served with tea or coffee, sometimes for breakfast. Not desserts and not a meal, they are a type of light cake with a few raisins in it, wrapped up like a tamale in an achira leaf, and steamed. The achira leaf gives it a kind of mild citrus flavor, and they are more sweet than savory.
Along the roadside, you'll often see the sign for "bizcochos" or biscuits, which are not the traditional biscuit most of us would know. They are a light, savory, crunchy lady-finger shaped pastry, delicious with coffee or tea, or for breakfast.

You don't find a lot of variety here; few imported foods, no fancy vinegars, no fine cheeses. On the other hand, it's about as local as you can get. Nearly everything is fresh, and nothing comes from more than 100 or so miles away; so you can get potatoes and onions and other cool climate foods from the highlands, along with the fresh shrimp and fish, cilantro, melons, bananas and yuca from the coast. No matter where you go, be sure to try the local specialities. Delicious typical meals can be found and enjoyed in every region of Ecuador.

Organic Garden, Cotacachi Ecuador

2009-03-28T10:30:00.000-07:00

Cotacachi, Ecuador is a great spot for organic gardens. The volcanic soil is rich, the rainy season brings the necessary moisture, and the sun shines almost every day. On our recent trip to Ecuador, we visited a new demonstration Ethno-Botanic organic garden that is being created near Cotacachi.

This organic garden is being developed by local farmers in conjunction with UNESCO, with the objective of retaining their traditional food and medicinal plants as well as training others in the farming methods. Above, UNESCO volunteer, Kenji, tells the group about the garden's layout, where each plot contains typical plants that are grown together.

The garden will keep alive the historic foods of the Andes, preserving the biodiversity of this highland nation. It is worked by volunteers from the community and abroad, as well as employing locals. Once developed, eco-tours will help support the garden. Here, barley and beans grow side by side in one plot.

The 2 hectare plot contains a medicinal and herb garden, where traditional medicinal herbs such as mint, oregano, cedron and manzanilla are being grown. Alongside it, a pharmacia has been constructed where traditional recipes for salves, tinctures and ointments are used to create products for sale. These sales will help support the garden. Here is the Pharmacia, with Merri and Alberto discussing the plantings of lemongrass, one of the herbs used in various recipes.

Alongside the medicinal garden is the food garden. Ecuadorian farmers have always practiced companion planting, and that's evident here. Plants are grouped by the altitude that they thrive in. At the lower elevations, peas and wheat are planted together. Higher, barley and beans (similar to broadbeans) grow side by side. Next, corn and climbing beans grow, the tall cornstalks supporting the bean plants. Finally, a plot of quinoa and amaranth, shown in the foreground below, two of the ancient cereal grains (or seeds) grow together. Note the tall reeds in the background. These reeds are used by musicians to make the indigenous flutes and reed pipes.

In another section, kale, white and black carrots, peppers and cabbages are grown. Fig trees, tree tomatoes, blackberries, and Chinese gooseberries are some of the fruits found here.

Several indigenous trees are being re-introduced. The leaves are used for compost and the root systems help conserve water in the soil. The idea here is for these native trees, which balance the soil's minerals, to be re-forested eventually, and perhaps replacing some of the introduced eucalyptus, which depletes the soil as it rapidly spreads.

A small pond is fringed with reeds, which is used for thatch and weaving of floor mats. Nearby, a juice bar is being constructed, where organic, natural juices will be available. A music hut (shown above) and a shaman hut are being built, with plans for musical training and concerts and shamanic ceremonies.

Quinoa - Grain of the Andes

2008-12-16T12:13:00.000-08:00

History of Quinoa

Quinoa (keen-wah) has its origins in the high upper Andes. The Incas credited quinoa with medicinal and magical properties, and held the crop to be sacred, referred to quinoa as "chisaya mama" or "mother of all grains". The Inca emperor would traditionally sow the first seeds of the season using 'golden implements'. It has been in continuous cultivation in Colombia. Ecuador. Peru, Bolivia. Chile and Argentina for over 6000 years. Both the seeds and the young leaves can be used as food.

Seed Head of Quinoa

During the European conquest of South America quinoa was scorned by the Spanish colonists as "food for Indians," and its cultivation and use was actively suppressed, due to its status within indigenous ceremonies. Today, it is returning to commercial favor as a grain in these countries, although it still shares first place with corn as the primary indigenous grain.

In 'El Meson de las Flores', a small hotel in Cotacachi, Ecuador, the chef, Santiago, is constantly testing and creating new dishes with quinoa. He now appears on local tv in Ecuador, promoting the use of quinoa and other traditional foods. I've been fortunate to be the tester for some of his cookie, cake and empanada recipes, and they are delicious!

In the Quinoa Cafe

Chef Santiago serving a quinoa cake…sweet and delicious but protein filled.

Food Value of Quinoa

Quinoa is close to being a perfect food source in the balance of nutrition it provides. Not a grain but a seed, quinoa is related to the leafy vegetables, swiss chard and spinach.

Quinoa is an excellent source of protein - 12% to 18%, one of the best sources of complete protein in the vegetable kingdom. Quinoa is a source of all essential amino acids, including the amino acid lysine which helps the body produce protein. Lysine also helps the body process the protein in the quinoa and in other foods. The World Health Organization has rated the quality of protein in quinoa to be equivalent or superior to that found in milk products.

Quinoa is a great source of B vitamins, potassium and riboflavin. It's also a good source of zinc, copper, manganese, magnesium, folic acid, vitamin E and fiber.

In its natural state, the quinoa seed has a bitter coating of saponins that must be removed before it can be used as a food. This coating evolved to discourage birds from devouring the seeds. Quinoa thrives in areas with poor or alkaline soil, and in areas up to 4000 metres above sea level. Because it is cold tolerant, it is now a valuable alternate crop in Western Canada, Colorado and Scandinavia.

Quinoa Seeds

How to Use Quinoa

Quinoa is very easy to prepare. The coating is easily removed by soaking or thoroughly rinsing the seeds in running water. Most quinoa available in North American markets has been pre-washed to remove the saponin coating.

Quinoa is cooked much like rice - 2 cups of water to 1 cup of quinoa, simmered for about 15 minutes. This cooked quinoa can be mixed with vegetables and herbs in a variety of ways. It can also be cooked in chicken or vegetable broth for extra flavor.

Mixed with a bit of cinnamon and sugar, honey, nuts or berries, it makes a delicious high-protein breakfast. Use it in salads in place of rice or pasta. Quinoa is also ground into flour, which can be used in wheat-based or gluten-free baking and quinoa pasta is available.

Mango Quinoa Salad

This is my all-time favourite quinoa recipe. It serves 4 as a side dish or 2 as a main dish.

1 cup quinoa
2 cups water
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 mango
1/2 cup cucumber
1/4 cup blanched almonds
2 tablespoon roasted pumpkin seeds

Dressing:

1 teaspoon Ghee (clarified butter)
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 lime or half a lemon, juiced
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash quinoa and boil in water for 10 minutes, Let sit until quinoa absorbs all the water. Fluff with a fork and let it cool to room temperature.

Peel the mango and cut into cubes. Dice the cucumber, and add to mango along with the almonds and pumpkin seeds.

To make the dressing, heat Ghee in a small pan and fry with turmeric for 30 seconds, then let it cool. Add the lemon or lime juice. Mix in olive oil, cilantro, salt and pepper.

Add the cooled quinoa to the mango mixture, pour the dressing over the salad, and toss.

Chilean Quinoa Tabouleh

2 cups Quinoa
4 cups water
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
5 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
2 tsp minced garlic
1 cup fresh corn kernels, cooked
1 cup finely chopped red onion
4 plum tomatoes cut into (1/2-dice)
1 cup diced (1/2 inch) cucumbers
1 ripe avocado, pitted, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch dice

Place Quinoa in a medium-sized pan, add the water, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until the liquid is absorbed, 12 to 15 minutes. The Quinoa should be translucent. Remove from heat and fluff it with a fork. Transfer the Quinoa to a large bowl and cool to room temperature.

Sprinkle the quinoa with the salt and pepper and stir, folding from underneath the grains. Fold in 4 tablespoons of the lemon juice and the oil. Gently fold in the cilantro and garlic. Toss the avocado with remaining tablespoon of lemon juice to prevent discoloration. Fold the corn, onion, tomatoes, cucumbers and avocado into the Quinoa. Adjust the seasonings to taste. Serve at room temperature within 2 hours of preparation. Serves 8 to 10.

Quinoa Salad Pita Pockets

Crunchy Quinoa Peanut Butter Cookies

1 1/4 cups Quinoa Flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt

Cream Together:

1 cup crunchy peanut butter
1/2 cup shortening or butter
1 cup lightly packed brown sugar
2 tbsp toasted Quinoa grain
1 egg, beaten

Stir in dry ingredients. Shape into small balls and place on a greased baking sheet about 3 inches apart. Press ½ inch thick with floured fork. Bake in preheated 350 oven for 12 to 15 minutes or until nicely browned. Makes 3-4 dozen cookies.

Links to More Information About Quinoa

Northern Quinoa Corporation
Northern Quinoa Corp, located in Kamsak Sask. is a processer and distributor of organic and non-organic quinoa, quinoa products and other grains. Visit the site for recipes and Online Store.
Whole Grains - Slow Carbs vs Low Carb
Low-carb diets and the low carb craze have caused many people to avoid whole grains. This is like throwing the baby out with the bath water. All carbs are definitely not created equal. Low carb diets may be...
Cook Quinoa and Quinoa pasta with spiced squash and ...
Want to know more about quinoa? I've received a few emails on the wonders of quinoa since launching my 55-page free eBook: Frugal Food & Fitness. Since mentioning this cheap and healthy food in my eBook, it...
Paella-style Quinoa & Spanish Wine
Inspiration strikes at the strangest times and in the strangest ways. In my refrigerator was a batch of homemade marinara sauce made from the last can of crushed tomates, some balsamic vingegar, sun-dried...
Quinoa : Facts and Easy Recipes
Quinoa is a very versatile food. It is a seed, which cultivation and uses date back to pre-Incan times. Unlike wheat or rice (which are low in lysine), quinoa contains a balanced set of essential amino acids...

Cuenca - Ecuador's Third Largest City

2008-01-09T09:08:00.000-08:00

Last November, I took a small group of friends to Ecuador. We had 2 weeks to see and experience as much of the country and culture as we could. I had set up an itinerary that would allow us to take time to experience several spots.

One of the places we visited was the third largest of Ecuador's cities - Cuenca. We had hired a guide and decided to take the road trip to Cuenca from Quito. That two day trip down Volcano Alley is a story for another day. We arrived in Cuenca in mid-afternoon, into a much warmer, sunny wide valley. The city was spread out before us.

We registered at the Posada del Angel, right downtown - a refurbished home, with a central courtyard - airy and friendly. The photo shows the dining area - with rooms above.

Cobbled streets, graceful ironwork balconies, flowering plazas and courtyards and cathedrals recall Cuenca's Colonial past.

The blend of indigenous and Spanish peoples and cultures, the high artistic quality of local handcrafts and colorful markets are very Ecuadorian. This area is the center of ikat weaving, the silver and gold jewelry towns and one of Ecuador's pottery centers.

At an altitude of 2,550 meters (7,650 feet) above sea level, Cuenca enjoys a mild climate and a fabulous geographic position. It's historic downtown area was declared a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site on December 1999, a fitting honor for Ecuador's most beautiful city.

Among Cuenca's special sights are the panoramic view from Turi Hill of the old and new cities, Plaza Calderon and its imposing blue-domed cathedral, overhanging wooden houses and brightly colored laundry on the Tomebamba River banks. Downtown, we visited the flower and straw markets, Museum of Religious Art in the 17th-century Immaculate Conception Monastery and the Todos Santos pre-Columbian ruins.

Art galleries and handcrafts shops display the original Panama hat and local ceramics, ikat (tie-dye) weavings, jewelry, embroidery, leather and straw work. We were so fortunate to have a great guide, who took us to local restaurants, to a local ikat weaver's workshop, to Chordeleg's jewellry shops, and to the amazing workshop and gallery of Vega - the most beautiful ceramics I'd seen.

We flew back to Quito, with heavier suitcases, and a desire to visit this lovely city again.

Learning Spanish Like Crazy

2007-10-11T18:46:00.000-07:00

I first ran across 'Learning Spanish Like Crazy' about a year ago. I was planning a trip to Ecuador with my husband, and although I'd gone to some Continuing Education Spanish classes at our local university, my grasp of Spanish was very limited...to be truthful, pretty non-existent.

So, I spent some time on line, looking for a Spanish conversational program that would include the things I felt were important:

It had to use native Latin American speakers.
It had to be downloadable, in mp3 format, for use on my Ipod.
It had to be affordable.
It had to focus on conversation.

I found 'Learning Spanish Like Crazy', did some reading and listening to a sample, and ordered it. It took a while to download, as each lesson is about 45 minutes long. Included was a series of pdf files, the transcripts of each lesson.

Each lesson is about 45 minutes, the optimum time for focus and retention.
It follows a listen and repeat format, in Spanish and English.
Each lesson builds on the last one.
There are 30 lessons in the introductory program, so you are certainly getting your money's worth at $97.
I can learn in the car, on my walks, or as I shop for groceries (although if you do this, be prepared for some strange looks).

If you are looking for a Spanish course that delivers all it promises, and even gives you extras, such as grammar lessons and videos, then click on the bold title to buy 'Learning Spanish Like Crazy', or see the link in my footer below.

Hasta Luego!

Arts and Crafts of Ecuador - Tapestries

2007-06-13T13:11:00.000-07:00

Otavalo is one of the most important and spectacular textile markets in all of Latin America. Otavalans have been textile workers for nearly a millennium, even before the Incan invasion.

After the Spanish conquest in the early 1500’s, weaving workshops or 'obrajes' were set up with hundreds of workers. By 1720, this form of slavery was abolished, and workers began to own their property. In the Otavalo area, the techniques and patterns of woven textiles were passed down through families. This village became the largest colonial tapestry and carpet center in South America.

The market in Otavalo is full of tapestries of all colors, sizes and designs. Some are geometric, some with ancient designs, some depict the people and animals of Ecuador. Be careful in your choice - not all are of the same quality.

Nearby is Peguche, the village of the weavers. Although smaller and less well known, the weaving quality is finer. Here you will find tighter weaves, richer and greater varieties of patterns. The rugs and tapestries found here no longer compete at the low end of the market.

Master Weaver Jose Cotacachi of Peguche at work.

Why Tapestries?

Tapestries are art
Tapestries are interior decoration
Tapestries tell a story
Tapestries are tradition

Ecuadorian tapestries are evolving – weavers are becoming better and some are famous. In Quito galleries, I found absolutely stunning tapesries, large, detailed and with amazing color. You may pay up to $3000 for one there. Why not go to the source - visit Otavalo and Peguche. I guarantee you won't be disappointed.

When you take home an Ecuadorian tapestry, you are taking home an ancestral tradition, transmitted generation after generation from the first ones who learned to weave to the present generation.

Day Trips in the Andes - Chachimbiro

2007-06-10T14:39:00.001-07:00

One of my favourite day trips when I'm based in Cotacachi is the journey to the hot springs at Chachimbiro. There aren't a lot of places in this high mountain terrain where you'd enjoy swimming or bathing. Certainly it's not like being on a beach vacation, where the water is warm, plentiful and turquoise. Imbabura province has its share of lakes, but they're not the best for swimming. Lago San Pablo, near Otavalo, is good for sailing, but the shores are muddy and reedy, and the water at this altitude is definitely not warm.

However, because of the volcanic activity of the area, there are several great hot spring and spa locales in Ecuador. Chachimbiro is about an hour away from Cotacachi, by car or bus. This is a journey through the countryside on cobbled roads that wind down into deep valleys, then back up to the hilltops. Located in a deep valley, at the upper end is the public area. Here people come to 'take the cure' in the mineral waters, and it can be quite crowded. But, just below this Spa is a privately owned hot spring area, and this is where I'd advise you to go.

You pay your $4 fee, and descend the concrete steps under a bower of vines and exotic flowers. It's impossible for me to bypass the hibiscus, canna lilies, bougainvillea, and honeysuckle that line the pathway without stopping to admire them.

At the foot of the steps is a colorful gazebo-like construction. Inside, the hot (and I mean HOT!) water gushes forth from the rocks, and the room is a marvellous steam room. Just beside that is a deep cold pool, and another very hot pool. It's very invigorating to go from hot steam to cold pool, and back to the hot pool. I will admit, though, it always take me a few minutes to get my nerve up to leap into that cold water!

Below this, there are several pools, each a little cooler than the last, as they cascade down the valley. The final pool is a wonderful swimming temperature, and large enough to get a bit of exercise. Just below it is the change area. The changing rooms are clean, but plain. You get a basket for your clothes, and after getting suited up, step under the outside showers adjacent to the change area. You have a choice of hot, warm, or cold showers, all coming from pipes overhead in the rock-paved area.

As tempting as it might be, you'll need to be careful here. The sun, remember, is directly overhead, and it's easy to forget how long you've relaxed , floating dreamily in the warm water.

The pools are clean, the water is wonderful, and the mountain air crisp and pure. A day trip you definitely don't want to miss!

Suitcase Exporting

2007-05-05T10:00:00.000-07:00

The craft market in Otavalo is huge fun - dozens of vendors offering amazingly beautiful tapestries for wall and floor; huge stacks of sweaters, all 'alpaca'; soft cotton shawls of all colours; tables full of silver handcrafted jewellry; colourful tagua necklaces and bracelets, ponchos of all types and colors; unique art and carvings, and on.... and on....

Bargaining is mandatory. If you don't offer at least 30% less than the quoted price, you're going to be sorry. Besides, it's fun! I've found that everyone is willing to bargain, and you will never feel pressured to buy. But you will buy!

Now, what does that all have to do with 'Suitcase Exporting'? Well, it's amazing how far your dollar goes. A dozen tagua bracelets will cost you anywhere from $15 to $25, depending on your aforementioned bargaining skills. Soft, lovely cotton shawls can be had for $1 to $2 each. You can fit a lot of those into a suitcase. People at home love them, and are willing to pay you up to ten times your investment.

One friend I've met in Ecuador says that people who see her wearing her ponchos want to buy them right off her back! They will cost you less than $8 in Otavalo.

And when you visit Otavalo, make sure you go into the streets off the Plaza de los Ponchos. That's where the wholesalers are located. There you'll find outlets with stacks of hand knitted sweaters, heaps of ponchos, shelves full of embroidered cotton clothing, beautiful leather goods and silver or tagua jewellry.

In the shops of Cotacachi, you can find quality leather purses for as little as $15. If you've been shopping back home, you know that a quality leather purse can run you anywhere from $60 to $300. Do you see an opportunity here? I won't even mention the leather coats, the quality saddles, the horsehair woven belts....

Look for opportunities. Do some market research before you leave home. Find your passion, something you know. It may be saddles, it may be sweaters, or wood carving. Then visit the markets of Ecuador, and fill your suitcases with the quality products there. Bring them back home, and I'll bet you have no problem making some money... for your next trip.

Climate Change?

2007-05-04T07:19:00.000-07:00

Wow - looks like we left Ecuador at the right time! We returned to the 'Wet Coast' on April 1, to a month of rain and cool weather.

However, I've just heard from one of the residents of San Miguel (the development in Cotacachi where we now own 2 lots), and it looks like Ecuador was following suit weatherwise. Usually, there is a lot of sun in April, with some rain, since it's toward the end of the 'rainy season'.

He tells me that April was really really wet, with many thunderstorms (NOT usual there), and that during one particularly violent storm, the figure of Christ atop the cathedral was hit by lightning and lost an arm!

Here's a photo showing the cathedral - a very large and lovely one for such a small town.

This area of Ecuador has been shown to be the central point where lines of energy cross, and is thought to be one of the most sacred spots in Ecuador. This is why the conquering Spaniards chose it to build the cathedral. Many of the cathedrals are located on the spots that the indigenous people revered as centres of power, and upon which their temples were built.

I've also recently learned that climate change is more extreme at the poles, and less so on the equator. What does that tell us, with the above in mind?

Shop Til You Drop

2007-04-14T16:12:00.000-07:00

One of the great pleasures in Ecuador is the shopping at local markets. I don't mean only the wonderful craft markets found in many centres throughout Ecuador, but also the amazing food markets.

Every Sunday, the local growers around Cotacachi bring their just-picked produce to the large covered market and its adjacent outdoor market square. The market overflows with fresh fruits - pineapples, tree tomatoes, bananas, oranges, plums, strawberries, blackberries, and many more local fruits. It also overflows with people - children, locals, couples, teens, and tourists!

On the opposite side are booths packed with baskets of all varieties of potatoes, long carrots, bunches of huge scallions, immense cabbages, fresh greens and more. In one corner, the scent of exotic spices such as star anise, cinnamon bark, peppercorns, achiote and nutmeg fill the air. You can find local cheeses, fresh breads, hot corn, and freshly shelled beans for immediate eating.In the outdoor courtyard, all those who are not permanent vendors have set up their wares. In these outdoor stalls you can buy the lovely warm sweaters of local knitters, colourful hammocks, woven tapestries, beautifully embroidered clothing and table linens, and handmade baskets. Off in a corner, a flutist and guitarist are playing the local music.

What a great way to spend a Sunday, just wandering through, buying fresh food for dinner, and enjoying the kaleidescope of colours, the cacophony of sounds, and the friendly, cheerful vendors and customers.

The Day the Condors Flew

2007-04-01T07:47:00.000-07:00

It is the last day of our 3 day Shamanic Mingo Tour. Yesterday we visited a village where the people are attempting to develop eco-tourism. Today, some of these villagers are taking us, along with their Yatchak to Lake Cuicocha. This lake is part of a large reserve, and until ten years ago, the indigenous people were forbidden to use this sacred lake to perform any of their special ceremonies. Now they are able to travel to a narrow beach, where a waterfall tumbles down the high cliffs and flows into the "Lake of the Gods'. This powerful site is our destination.

At the dock, we all pile into two of the tourist boats used to tour the lake. The village's musicians are in our boat, and as we begin our voyage, they play and sing us on our way. Lake Cuicocha is a crater lake with two large islands in its centre. The crater walls stretch up almost vertically on all sides. We head off around the islands, to the far side of the lake.

As we beach and clamber out of the boats, most of us set off exploring up the small creek. We help gather dry wood for a fire, and look for special stones in the water's edge. With a fire crackling, the Yatchak sets up his tools - over 70 powerful stones from many of the power sites in Ecuador, the tobacco and alcohol used in the ceremony, and the offerings of foods for Pacha Mama. This is to be an Equinoxal ceremony, giving thanks to the Earth for its bounty and care, and also asking for hope and prosperity for all of us - both North and South Americans.

We sit in a circle around the Yatchak, and he begins his ceremony quietly and with great dignity. His chants call on the gods - of the earth, the water, fire, and air, and also the Christian god. His prayers are for prosperity for these villagers, and for the hope that their efforts to develop a better life will succeed. He includes all of us in his prayers. He then leads us to a small depression under the water, in the shallows. We carry offerings of foods and seeds, returning to Pacha Mama some of her bounty in thanks, and then our offerings are covered with stones, a cairn to the gods. All of this is done with dignity and great ceremony, and it is very moving.

As we return to the fire, and start to dry our feet, I hear a voice say, "Hey, look - the eagles are flying!" We turn to watch, and as the two birds circle above us, we see that they are not eagles at all, but Andean condors - those magical and rare birds. They swoop and soar above us, circling and turning, and finally settle on the cliff side high above us.

What a completion to our ceremony! This is a sign that excites and thrills us all, but most of all, it thrills our Yatchak. It is a sign that the Gods have heard us, a sign of favor and hope.

Cotacachi, Ecuador

2007-03-16T12:53:00.000-07:00

Wow - We've been in Ecuador for over 2 weeks, and I've finally a few moments to write a blog entry!

With our long time friends, Carl and Rose, we arrived here March 1st, got through customs and immigration with no problemas, and then caught a van to Hotel Quito. We needed a van, because we were bringing down towels, sheets, and other household items to our new condo here in Cotacachi. These items are available here, but quality varies, and we had decided to shop at home for them.

We spent two days in Quito with a marvelous cab driver/guide by the name of Milton Benavenides. If you're going to explore Quito, you'll want someone like him to take you around. Although the 4 of us were a bit cramped in his taxi, he was a charming and funny guide, very educated and erudite.

Our trip up to Cotacachi was more comfortable, and since being here, we've been on the run - checking up on the condo's finishing, swimming at the thermal springs at Chachimbiro, visiting markets, meeting up with old friends and meeting new ones.

We have just finished a week-long intensive Super Spanish course, offered here in El Meson de los Flores in Cotacachi. This course is based on the Superlearning techniques developed by Dr. Georgi Lazanov in the early 1960's. To read more about his techniques, just go to Superlearning on the net. For me, it was a wonderful experience, and I feel much more confident in expressing myself in Spanish.

So, tomorrow we visit the spa at El Mirage for 90 minutes of absolute luxury - volcanic clay baths, eucalyptus detoxifying steam, Shamanic purification, and more!!

Seminars in the Sun

2007-02-21T18:32:00.000-08:00

My sister, Julia, also loves to travel to new and exotic places. She's quite far ahead of me in the number of countries visited, whereas my husband and I have often returned several times to a favourite place. We've found that's a great way to really experience a place, to get to know local people and attractions.

So, following our arrival home after our first Ecuador trip last February, we raved about our experiences to anyone who would listen. My weaver friends were gaga over the tapestries, shawls, and tagua nut jewellery I brought home. In fact, selling some of my treasures to them helped to pay for the trip.

Well, Julia was one of those who listened, and before long, she and I decided to leave husbands at home and attend an Import/Export seminar in Cotacachi, Ecuador at the end of April. She has been an entrepreneur all her working life, and is a very successful businesswoman. We both loved the idea of importing some of the lovely crafts, and finding markets for them in North America. We had a wonderful trip, learned a lot about what and how to import, and came home with suitcases full of wonderful 'stuff'. (We'll save that for a future post)

Of course, I again raved about our experiences, and before long, had two friends who wanted to be in on our next adventure. So, I arranged a trip for the four of us - set up the travel, booked the hotels, and planned a side trip with my favourite Ecuador tour company (have a look at Ecuador Amazing and their offerings).

We spent 16 days just travelling around, visiting historic sites with our bilingual guide, basking in the sun, visiting craft markets, and eating great seafood (no Cuy for us - for those of you who don't know, that's roast guinea pig, a local delicacy).

We visited Quito, Mital del Mundo, Riobamba, Cuenca, Chordeleg, Otavalo, Cotacachi, and places in between. And in Cotacachi (the leather workers town), we all found it necessary to buy new leather expandable suitcases (under $50) to bring home our treasures.

While Julia and I attended a seminar on International Business for three days, our two companions spent some blissful time in the local spa, La Mirage. Bathing in lavender or rose petals may not be for everyone, but they both came back absolutely delighted with their experience.

La Mirage, (http://www.mirage.com.ec) located in Cotacachi, is a contemporary hotel and spa built on the grounds of a 200 year old hacienda. The spa offers 17 different treatments, the newest being a chocolate - yes, chocolate - massage and treatment! That is my choice for my visit next month!

My next post will be from Ecuador. I'll keep you posted.

Learning Spanish

2007-02-20T16:24:00.000-08:00

Learning a second (or a third, fourth, ... ) language should be a compulsory part of everyone's education. I don't mean that 'high school French' that a lot of us Canadians have, or the few words in Spanish or Italian we've picked up from friends.

What I mean, is speaking and being understood, and understanding a language that is not our mother tongue. In some ways, I feel a bit cheated. My father was from Switzerland, and was fluent in four languages when he emigrated to Canada (later, five). He put this to good use during WW2, when he worked with Army Intelligence. But he never attempted to teach us his languages, and I wish he had.

Later in life, two of my brothers married Spanish speaking girls - one from Spain and one from Columbia. At that time, I decided I'd like to learn Spanish, as a gesture to them. I registered with Continuing Education at our university, and took 2 sessions. Not many chances to use it, though, as we lived over 6 hours away from both of them. The desire to learn took a back seat to more pressing matters.

Now, 15 years later, I'm learning again. Spanish is one of the most commonly used languages in the world, and to truly experience Ecuador, my country of choice, I need to know it. I want to know it. And I will!

This time, I've downloaded a Spanish course and am having some success. I just load up my IPod, and as I go for my daily walk, I listen and talk to myself. I get some funny looks, but who cares.

Each visit to Ecuador, (and in 1 week, it will be my fourth visit), I can understand more and more conversation. I'm able to answer simple questions, and to generally make myself understood in a shop or restaurant. I can read most menus. I'm starting to get by.

However this visit, I'm attending a week long seminar (see my link to the right) called Super Learning Spanish. It incorporates the techniques developed by Georgi Lazanov, and used in Russia for many years. Plug Super Learning into Google to read up on it.

I'll keep you posted on how I make out.

An Afternoon With the Shaman Part 3

2007-02-13T09:41:00.000-08:00

In Spanish, Don Carlos calls on Pachamama, our Mother Earth, the Water, necessary for life; the Air we breathe; and the Fire – the Spirit within all of us, to bless this place. I’m sure some of us believe that the falling rain is a sign of blessing from that element!

Throughout the ceremony, Steve and our tour guide, Santiago, translate for us, and a local man simultaneously translates into Quechua for the family. Each of us is given tobacco, which we hold next our heart and head, so that it can absorb some of our spirit power. The tobacco is then gathered into one large roll with a corn-husk wrapper, so that the collective spiritual power of the group can be shared by all. It is passed around the circle and each of us draws in the smoke and its collective energy into our body.

With this smoke, which is a symbol of the spirit within us, with the burning of seeds and leaves of special plants and herbs, we each participate in this ritual of sharing and combining our spirits, calling on the power we all are a part of in this world, and of nature, and beyond. We are encouraged to offer to the central fire both tobacco and special seeds, symbols of life and growth, and to bathe ourselves in the sweet-smelling smoke, which cleanses and heals. We offer our thanks for this sharing and blending. An aura of power and spirit is almost visible, so strongly do we feel it.

Finally, Don Carlos calls on those who may require specific healing to allow him to perform a healing. Several people participate in this, each one individually stepping forward. Using smoke and ritual chants, he generously works with each of them.

By now, we realize we are quite wet and cold. The rain has fallen, gently but continuously, and dusk is beginning to creep upon us. As we break from the circle and look up, we see the mass of Imbabura’s flank with its fields and farmhouses rise behind us where the clouds have lifted. The views are breathtaking. Across the valley, Cotacachi is partly visible, with a cap of white cloud. In the distance, the hills at the foot of Mojanda rise out of the mists.

Don Carlos tells us that he has felt our energy and spirits strongly, and he thanks us for our part in blessing this land that will give hope and new life to the Old Ones of his village. We each thank the family for their generosity and hospitality, and even though we, and they, do not understand the words, the meanings are clear. The oldest daughter, a lovely, friendly girl of about sixteen, assures us that they will always keep us in their hearts. She thanks us for coming to share this ceremony and afternoon with them. They will not forget us, and we will not forget them.

We troop into the bus, wet and shivering, and yet uplifted and exalted by all we have experienced. Leonardo guides our bus down the muddy roads, between the cornfields, through the village, and down the cobblestone street. Across the valley, lights are springing to life, as dusk, and then darkness, envelops this place, this lovely valley in Imbabura province of Ecuador.

An Afternoon With the Shaman Part 2

2007-02-10T09:38:00.000-08:00

Just behind the adjoining cornfield, we see a small adobe house, with a dirt yard surrounded by outbuildings. The enclosed yard is impeccably swept and clean, with just a few chickens and a friendly small dog there to greet us. From this habitation, set in cornfields, emerges a Quechua family – grandmother, father, mother, teenage children, and a lovely tiny girl.

We are greeted by all of them, even tiny Cindy, with smiles and handshakes. Although they speak only Quechua and a little Spanish, we understand that they feel honored to have us visit, and in return, we also feel honored to be made so welcome.

We are all – all thirty of us - invited into their home, and shown into a low ceilinged room with blue adobe walls, and a woven reed mat in the floor’s centre. Most of the furniture has been removed to make room for the lovely crafts that they offer for sale – cozy hand knitted alpaca sweaters and hats, ponchos woven of natural wools, tapestry rugs, patterned bags, silver jewelry, and even the ubiquitous T-shirts with Ecuadorian logos. Here, out of the rain that is falling outside, we are dry and warm.

Don Carlos explains, through our guide and translator Steve, that we will be offered food. This is an integral part of the ceremony we will participate in, a sharing of the bounty and blessing of Pachamama, the land that sustains the people.

A large clean white cloth is spread over the reed mat in the centre of the floor. Don Carlos brings in a huge steaming pot of boiled corn, with oversized kernels on each cob. Next is a pot of new boiled potatoes, round and brown-skinned. These are heaped onto the white cloth, and they smell very appetizing. Plates of sliced local cheese, mild, creamy and white, follow, along with dishes of the local pepper sauce and an enormous basin of a drink that is made from pulverized dried corn, slightly fermented, sweetened and diluted.

Don Carlos offers a blessing and we are invited to eat; and, using our hands, we dig in. The corn is firm, meaty and very good. The potatoes, along with a slice of the cheese taste delicious. We share the two cups available, and sip the corn drink. It is warm and uniquely tasty.

After the meal, we return outside, to the field and the rain, where Don Carlos has drawn a large circle in the earth, divided into quadrants with a charcoal fire at the centre. We space ourselves around this circle, with Don Carlos at one side where a division line intersects. All of us, including the Quechua family and our intrepid bus driver, are there to participate in this blessing. Rain is falling and the mists have closed in on the peaks as the ceremony begins.

An Afternoon With the Shaman Part 1

2007-02-07T20:12:00.000-08:00

The bus turns off the Pan-American Highway onto a cobblestone road that runs straight, up the lower field-covered flanks of Imbabura volcano. Tan adobe houses, with tiled roofs, grey with age and sprouting weeds, surrounded by muddy adobe-walled yards where chickens and black pigs wander, appear between the fields of tall corn entwined with climbing beanstalks.

As we climb upward, a small village appears – several time-worn adobe houses with tiled roofs, a tiny tienda or market, and a few curious smiling Quechua children. The bus turns into this tiny village, and our driver carefully navigates between water-filled irrigation ditches that edge the narrow cobbled street. With the old adobe houses fronting directly on the streets, he has very little room for error.

Once through the village, the cobblestones vanish, and we wind our way up hills, around sharp corners, along muddy and bumpy roads, between misty cornfields, tethered pigs and cows, climbing ever upward. We all gasp as the bus maneuvers around a precious dairy cow that is tied to a tether right on the track’s edge. The road becomes steeper, and we find ourselves holding our breath as the bus slowly climbs through the rain.

We come up a final rise, and the land flattens out. This is our destination – the family home of Don Carlos, a local Shaman. Through the mist we can smell the clean sharp scent of eucalyptus trees. Immediately behind us rise the cultivated flanks of Father Imbabura; away to the left, hidden by mists, is Mojanda; across the valley is Mama Cotacachi; and in the distance, unseen behind the low clouds to the right, rears snow-capped Cayumbe. We are in a center of spiritual power, here between these four imposing volcanoes.

Don Carlos’ dream is to create, here on his ancestral lands, a centre for the ‘Old Ones’ – those elderly people of his village who have nothing. In the centre he intends to build, they can live and do honorable work, participating in those crafts that they learned throughout their lives; and sell their products to support themselves.

It was right here, in the field beside the bus, that his mother gave birth to this man, a child she knew would be special, and where we will have a ceremony of blessing.

To be continued....

Why Ecuador?

2007-02-06T10:50:00.000-08:00

I love to research places to travel to. South America has always been high on my list of places to visit - it seems so near, yet so exotic. Several countries were of interest - central American ones like Belize and southern ones like Argentina and Uruguay, but Ecuador won out. Why?

Well, first of all, I've met a wonderful couple, Gary and Merri Scott, who have spent over 12 years visiting, living in and investing in Ecuador. Their newsletters (www.garyascott.com) have made some of our most interesting reading over the past 3 years. They show a genuine love of the country and the people.

With my past involvement in arts and crafts, just reading about the craft centers of Ecuador was not enough. Placenames like Otavalo, Peguche, San Antonio de Ibarra, Cuenca and Chordeleg called to me. I found websites that told about the history of these places, and why each town had its own craft.

The crafts of Ecuador are among the most admired in South America. In each center, indigenous creativity and the ancestral inheritance are combined.The crafts vary according to the province or area.

For example in the North part of the country the craftsmen create beautiful products such as sweaters, coats, gloves, caps, shawls and tapestries with multi-coloured wools and cottons. Otavalo is one of the most important places in this artisan field and its famous crafts market is a cornucopia of color and delights. Here you can find all textiles, jewelry made of tagua and silver, leather, and paintings.

Just north of Otavalo, you'll find the lovely village of Cotacachi - known as the leatherworkers center. This is the place to buy beautiful leather coats, jackets, hats, belts and luggage at amazing low prices. Or how about a custom saddle, at a tenth of what it would cost in North America?

More to the South in Manabi Province the Toquilla straw is woven into elaborate hats, internationally known as "Panama hats". These hats are lightly woven and are comfortable to wear in either hot tropical climate or summer.

In the city of Latacunga in the Cotopaxi Province mud and clay are the main elements used to create elaborate pottery. Cuenca is another center of amazing pottery craft.

In Quito, the capital, a major Artisan market named Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal offers a broad selection of handicrafts. Both tourists and locals can choose from colorful Indian textiles to wooden carved figures, from paintings to jewelry, from Panama hats to wood birds along with many other crafts. The biggest selection of Ecuadorian painting is located in the parque El Ejido where artists gather together every weekend. This is an outdoor market where you can find painting of varying styles, along with all other crafts and arts.